From Medieval Pottage To Christmas Pudding
A Mixture Of Sweet And Savory:
Medieval cooks did not always separate sweet and savory flavors. Their pottages could contain grains, meat, dried fruit, spices, and wine. These rich dishes were especially suitable for winter because dried ingredients remained available after fresh foods became scarce.
A recipe called “fygey” appeared in the English cookbook The Forme of Cury, written around 1390. It called for ground almonds mixed with water and wine, along with figs, raisins, ginger, honey, and salt. Food historians regard preparations like this as possible ancestors of plum pottage and later Christmas pudding. However, the pudding did not descend from one recipe in a simple, direct line. It developed gradually from several related dishes.
The Meaning Of Plum:
The name “plum pudding” can confuse modern readers because traditional recipes do not require fresh plums. In older English cooking, “plum” could refer to raisins and other dried fruits. This explains why raisins, currants, and similar ingredients became central to the pudding.
As sugar became easier to obtain, cooks increased the sweetness. Recipes also began using breadcrumbs, flour, eggs, suet, spices, and alcohol. Suet is the firm fat found around the kidneys of cattle or sheep. It helped produce a moist, rich pudding that could be boiled without falling apart.
A New Way Of Cooking:
One major change occurred when cooks began placing pudding mixtures inside cloth and boiling them. This method turned a loose pottage into a firm, rounded food that could be sliced. Later versions were boiled or steamed inside basins, creating the familiar dome shape.
By the early 1700s, printed cookbooks contained recognizable plum-pudding recipes. Mary Kettilby included one in her 1714 cookbook. The name “Christmas pudding” appeared later. Cookery writer Eliza Acton published a recipe using that name in 1845, helping connect the dish more clearly with the holiday. Historical accounts describe this long development from dried-fruit puddings to the modern Christmas dish.
The Victorian Holiday Table:
Christmas pudding became especially important during the Victorian era. Charles Dickens strengthened its place in popular culture by featuring a flaming pudding in A Christmas Carol. The dessert came to represent family, celebration, and generosity.
Families developed customs around its preparation. Some stirred the mixture together and made wishes. Small coins or charms were sometimes placed inside, although doing so can create choking or dental hazards today. Brandy may also be poured over the finished pudding and lit before serving, but this should only be done carefully and away from children or flammable decorations.
A Recipe That Records History:
Christmas pudding tells a larger story about food. Recipes change as ingredients, technology, and tastes change. A thick pottage containing wine and raisins slowly became a sweet steamed dessert filled with dried fruit and spices. Every serving connects the modern Christmas table with centuries of British cooking, proving that even familiar traditions can have surprising beginnings.

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